local artisan culture, global fashion trend, kantha, ss20

Local artisan culture Kantha found a new relevance in global retail fashion market

The masculine dressing is redefined through local artisan culture, combining these artisan cultures with our existing process and giving a different level to the fashion market. There are many artisan cultures that have been adopted by the global fashion market, here we are going to study and interpret a local artisan culture “Kantha” in our collection.

Kantha is a type of embroidery typical of eastern South Asia, often practiced by rural women especially in the Indian states of West Bengal and Odisha, and in Bangladesh. Here old saris are stacked on each other and hand-stitched to make a thin piece of cushion. This is normally used above a bed cushion or instead of a cushion.

local artisan culture, global fashion trend, kantha

The traditional form of Kantha embroidery was done with soft dhotis and saris, with a simple running stitch along the edges. the embroidered cloth has many uses including shawls, covers for mirrors, boxes, and pillows. In some cases, the entire cloth is covered with running stitches with beautiful motifs of flowers, animals birds and geometrical shapes, also themes from everyday activities.

The stitching on the cloth gives it a slightly wrinkled, wavy effect which adds a new value to the garment. Nowadays contemporary Kantha is applied to a wider range of garments such as sarees, dupatta, dress materials, shirts, Denim, knitwear, etc. In short, this beautiful technique can be used in any garment with the help of skilled hands.

Here I am going to use this technique in menswear like t-shirt, shirt denim, etc. but I think if you are going to use this technique You have to add some washes dying process also with this technique like if you are making a t-shirt then you need to prefer the RFD fabric. First, you create the desired motif or pattern then cut & stitch the garment after that do a garment dye process. If you want to make a little rugged feel on a t-shirt then give a light pumice ball wash, I am telling you the result will amaze you and also it will stand out in the store.

let’s see some examples.

Crew neck tee

Local artisan culture, global fashion trend, kantha

Base fabric 180 gsm s/j 100 % cotton RFD, first make all the embroideries (20 tkt thread) on RFD fabric then stitch the garment after that garment dye + light pumice ball wash.

Collar Tee

Local artisan culture, global fashion trend kantha

Base fabric 240 gsm pique 100 % cotton RFD, first make all the embroideries (20 tkt thread) on RFD fabric then stitch the garment after that garment dye + light pumice ball wash.

Shirt

global fashion trend, local artisan culture, kantha

Base fabric 20’s poplin 100 % cotton RFD, first make all the embroideries (20 tkt thread) on RFD fabric then stitch the garment after that garment dye + light pumice ball wash.

Bottoms

local artisan culture, global fashion trend, kantha

Base fabric midweight canvas for the casual bottom and short for denim 13 oz twill fabric, the fabric needs to be blended for some strength.

We will make the above bottoms with the traditional way as we make denim, so these treatments will apply the spray, whiskering, pumice ball wash and little sanding on some area.

Thank you.

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Written by Khursheed Rabbani

Menswear designing, apparel graphics, knitwear, flat knits & outerwear including development. Research analysis, idea generation, fashion forecasting, concept making, range presentation & fashion marketing with 11 years experience.

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